My soul is happy when it wanders

Sept. 8, 2024 – Day One:

It’s dark at 8 am in Spain in September, for starters. Our Sunday breakfast began at 8 am because, well, it’s Sunday. And it’s dark.

We gathered our hiking sticks, backpacks, filled two water bottles, power bars, and made sure to lather enough Aquafor on our tootsies for good measure. Pro tips for hikers on the Camino en route to Santiago de Compostela is to rub a petroleum jelly between your toes, on the top of both feet, heels and then put on a pair of Darn Tough Merino Wool Socks.

As we climbed the stairs toward the Cathedral of Tui, a nice woman offered to take our group picture. We thanked her as we walked closer to the route, in hopes we’d grab a special cookie baked my the Clarises nuns. As we approached the convent, the nice lady who took our photo reappeared like magic. She motioned with her finger to follow her inside the small , ornate church. That is where she led us straight to the front and to the left side of the altar where a stern nun stood, ready to stamp our pilgrim passports. She reminded me of the grumpy nun from Sister Act, starring Whoopie Goldberg.

The experience led us to stay for mass before our first big hike. Our souls were full l, to say the least. As we stepped down the cobblestone path away from the convent, a beautiful river stood in the distance. We were now on the path known as the Roman Highway and where the term, all roads lead to Rome began.

The shells mark the distance in kilometers to Santiago and the remains of James the Greater, one of the original disciples of Jesus. It is said he walked this route, the St. James way, and preached the word of God.